I have always equated 4x4 with blond bimbos (cappuccino in one hand, cell phone in the other) who power past me on the tarmac highway – not a sand dune or rocky slope in sight. My knowledge about 4WD drive was limited to 'isn't it something you need for driving up mountains?’
I couldn't understand the attraction of off-road driving or the enthusiasm of so many people for 4x4. Until, that is, I experienced it for the first time, on a travel adventure in a camper through South Africa , Botswana, Lesotho, Mozambique, Namibia, Swaziland, Zambia and Zimbabwe. I discovered that Southern Africa is a 4x4 enthusiast's dream come true and that some of the most spectacular scenery is accessible only in a 4-wheel drive vehicle.
This is the story of my journey along many roads less traveled across Southern Africa.
Be safe, learn 4x4 driving
Before starting out on my travel adventure, I attended a one-day 4x4 driving course where we were taught all about traction and stability control, tyre pressures, cross-axling, wheel spin and rollover angles. We experienced driving up and down gradients, on sand, grass, mud, rocks and water. We crawled up side slopes and coped with stall starts. A whole new vocabulary opened up to me: differentials, hubs, break-over, drive shaft and transfer case. And I learnt that serious off-roading, 4x4s drivers look after their personal safety and treat the environment with respect.
4x4 hire
I chose to hire a double cab 4x4 from Drive Africa because their price includes everything – full comprehensive insurance with no excess and no cross-border surcharges. The fully-equipped camper comes with roof tent and all the other accessories you need for a camping trip, from fridges to forks to first aid kit.
Namibia
I began my journey in Namibia, country of wide horizons and vast distances, where I discovered a landscape full of contrasting light and shade that mirrors the diversity of its people. The rich blend of cultures and traditions emerges from the many different ethnic groups - the San, the Khoi-Khoi, the Herero and the Ovambo as well as the European population (largely German and Afrikaners).
1650m above sea level is Windhoek, capital of Namibia, a good place from which to explore the country. Very early in the morning, I set off for the world’s highest sand dunes that tower above the famous Sossusvlei clay pan in the southern Namib Desert. I travel through landscapes that become progressively more arid. With tyres deflated to 1 bar, my utility vehicle cruises towards the foot of the world-famous red sand dunes. I feel I am in real 4x4 country. Then my faithful 4x4 hits a patch of soft sand and struggles to move forward. Fortunately the rental camper comes equipped with sand mats, so I am able to get the vehicle out of that sticky corner.
I am heading for the Namib-Naukluft Park, an ecological preserve and the largest game park in Africa. Covering 49 768 sq. km (almost 5 million hectares) the Park stretches from the Swakop River in the north to the Aus/Luderitz road in the south and from the sea almost to the escarpment in the east. I am going to drive the Naukluft 4x4 trail, the first of its kind in a conservation area in Namibia. The two-day trail is approximately 73 km long with an overnight stop 30 km from Naukluft on the plateau at Tjeriktik (the Afrikaans name for titbabbler, a bird common to the Naukluft).
As I have time to spare, I decide to go via the Sesriem Canyon, named after the ses riems or six lengths of rope that were needed to haul water out of the gorge from the top. This geological feature is like a deep slash in the earth that runs west and is about 1 km long. Relieved that the Tsauchah River is dry, I continue via Büllsport towards Naukluft.
Finally, just before midday and after driving for over five hours, I arrive at the start of the Naukluft 4x4 trail, in plenty of time to check in at the office and confirm my reservation for the campsite at Tjeriktik.
After checking my water and supplies, I set off along the trail, cross a river and then start to climb, engaging 4-wheel drive (low range). To avoid wheel spinning, I drive slowly past high red cliffs, above which black eagles soar, until I arrive at the Zebra Zigzag. At the end of a steep climb, I stop to admire the view back down into the valley and, to the south, the red, flat-topped hills that I later learn are the Zaris Mountains. Unfortunately I don't spot any Hartmann's mountain zebra. Continuing along the plateau, I pass a fenced area and some beautiful rocks named de la Bat (after the first director of nature Conservation in Namibia).
From the turn off down the Rockhopper gorge, I drive slowly and careful for 8.5 km and at last arrive at the overnight camp in Tjeriktik. The end of my first serious four-wheel drive and I am looking forward to relaxing by the campfire. I feel tired but exhilarated and am very grateful for my roof tent, as it has been a long day driving.
The next morning, I leave via the scenic Four Passes route and join the main track about 8 km later. At this stage I decide to return to Naukluft instead of continuing to Bakenkop as I have many more places to visit. Back in Naukluft, I disengage the 4-wheel drive and set off on the road to Swakopmond. For your 4x4 Hire South Africa use Drive Africa.
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