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Swaziland
Driving through the town of Namaacha in my 4x4 rental on my way to the border with Swaziland, I pass a statue representing our Lady of Fatima on the town's main square and a rather grand but now dilapidated colonial church. The border post is a lot smarter than the church and appears to have been upgraded fairly recently boasting newish looking aluminium windows and coloured metal sheets on the roof. On the Swaziland side, the border post is called Lomahasha, not Namaacha.
Mlawula Nature Reserve (Lebombo Conservancy)
I cross the border without a problem (cross border car rental is such a blessing) and head south. I soon find myself in the heart of wildlife conservation, where the three nature reserves of Hlane, Mlawula and Mbuluzi merge to form the Lebombo Conservancy. Unfortunately I don't have time to visit all three reserves. I am tempted to go to Hlane, the biggest national park in Swaziland, that covers an area of 30 000 hectares and is home to the Big Five. But it is also has the highest density of raptors in the country, so I decide on the next biggest reserve, Mlawula, which the guide books describe as 'rugged country'. That it is - the Lebombo Mountains run north to south along the eastern border of the reserve. I steer my 4x4 hire in low gear up the mountain trails, past cycads and ancient ironwood trees. At the top I take some time to admire the fantastic views of Swaziland and the western border of Mozambique. I overnight at the Siphiso campsite, next to a stream and am woken the next morning by what sounds like all 300 different bird species in the reserve singing outside my tent.
Piggs Peak
I head back up north through Simunye and Maphiveni, and then turn westward towards Mlume, driving past acres of waving sugarcane until I soon reach the sugar town of Tshaneni. From here I take the road to Piggs Peak, and travel my 4x4 rental through rolling hills, past sparkling streams and endless waterfalls. My 4x4 has no problem negotiating the narrow gravel roads that climb through the mountains. I, on the other hand, keep my eyes firmly on the road in front of me and try to ignore the sheer drops to each side. Piggs Peak is a small forestry town that was named after a French prospector called William Pigg, who discovered gold nearby in 1884. Although the goldmine closed in 1954, today there is still treasure to be found at the famous casino! I decide to try my hand at a little light gambling and, unbelievably, hit a winning streak. What luck! I am now able to do some curio hunting – the handicrafts here are very highly rated. That afternoon I take a short drive in my cross border car rental up to the beautiful Phophonyane Falls, an experience that is very healing to the soul.
Malolotia Nature Reserve
The next day, I set off for Mbabane, about 100 kilometres away. I make a detour to the Malolotia Nature Reserve because the scenic route is said to be one of the finest in Swaziland. It is. I travel along a winding tarred road fringed with mountains and interspersed with gorges and waterfalls. This really is a beautiful country. I muse on the myriad of road tripping possibilities the continent of Africa holds for youngsters from around the globe, under 21 car hire has opened so many doors to the youth. Back on the main road, a short distance after the Hawane Dam, I turn left at Motshane towards Mbabane, Swaziland's administrative capital.
Mbabane
The traffic in Mbabane is terrible. What a contrast to my tranquil pastoral journey so far. Swaziland is predominantly rural and the towns are generally small and uninteresting. But it's quite fun driving my 4x4 rental through the capital, dodging vehicles parked seemingly in the middle of the road and avoiding the crowded mini-taxis. Nevertheless, I am glad not to be stopping in the city - my destination for today is the Mlilwane Game Reserve. Heading out of Mbabane on the road to Manzini, I take the first off-ramp sign posted Ezulwini/Mlilwane. After Ezulwini and Lombamba, I pass a filling station on the left and then about 500 metres later turn my 4x4 hire right onto a dirt route towards Mlilwane. A short while later I arrive at the Sangweni Gate.
Mlilwane Game Reserve
Mlilwane is the oldest reserve in Swaziland and is set at the heart of Ezulwini Valley (Valley of Heaven). Its name means 'little fire’, and refers to what happens when lightning strikes the granite mountains found in the area. I take advantage of the fact that visitors are allowed to drive themselves around and spend some happy hours viewing game from my cross border car rental. The driving routes in this reserve test my four-wheel-drive suspension to the limit, but are worth the effort! I see herbivores galore - zebras, different bucks, including the rare Nyala buck. However, after spotting rather too many hippos and crocodiles, I postpone my plans to go swimming. The next morning I wake up to the sound of screaming vervet monkeys and warthogs snuffling around outside.
Manzini
Leaving the camp, I get back on the road to Manzini, which I reach an hour or so later. Mbabane may be the capital of Swaziland but Manzini is the commercial and industrial centre. It's a sprawling and bustling town with busy, chaotic roads. What a contrast to the rural peacefulness that I have experienced over the past few days. I keep moving and continue south in my 4x4 rental. I pass a sign to the Mkhaya Game Reserve, Swaziland's refuge for endangered species such as buffalo, black rhino and sable antelope, where the famous traditional Nguni Cattle breed was saved from extinction. Unfortunately you have to book in advance, which I haven't done, so I don't stop. A few kilometres beyond the turning to Siteki, I pass the Van Eck dam (a popular spot for fishing) and arrive at the town of Big Bend.
Big Bend
As the name suggests, Big Bend lies on a big bend - in the Usuthu River. But the town itself is anything but big! However, the view across the river to the Lobombo Mountains more than compensates for the town. Like throughout most of Swaziland, the views are amazing. I would love to stay longer but it is time to move my 4x4 rental onto the next country.
Lavumisa border post
I continue my journey south, towards the South Africa/Swaziland border post of Lavumisa. The road from Big Bend is very good and the villages and small towns I go through have no stop streets or lights to slow down traffic – just speed bumps that often crop up without any warning. Even travelling slowly, it only takes me an hour to reach the Lavumisa border crossing in my 4x4 rental. Once there, I drive (technically) into South Africa, then walk back across the border again to get my passport stamped and return to my car and my onward journey through KwaZulu Natal!
* See our current Special Cross-Border Deals!
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